Sewing Desk Sit-Down Episode 12: Good Morning (Video)

Sewing Desk Sit-Down Episode 11: Prep-i-Sewed

Savers Thrift Haul Video

Burning up for you...Jumpsuit?? {Vintage McCall’s 2185}

I did it. I MADE a jumpsuit!! Meeting another goal for my 2017 Make Nine!

I was originally going to tell you exactly how this came to be because the plan got changed a lot and not because of my indecisiveness either... As I was writing it out I realized it was going to be way to much to read. 

You’ll just have to take my word for it...or watch my jumpsuit video coming soon to the Jewberly Emiris YouTube channel! Subscribe HERE so you don’t miss it!

WATCH IT HERE

This pattern choice was the last straw... (I had only three patterns to chose from) It’s vintage 1970 McCall’s 2185.
I found it at Gem’s and Junk in Beatrice (Nebraska) for $1!
They tend to have a good amount of patterns to look through when I stop in...unfortunately I think the worker has caught on that all I buy there is patterns because now they price some of them at $3.50 which still isn’t bad especially if you find a “gem”. ;) Although, It does feels strange knowing you personally influenced a price increase though! lol

To the pattern itself...I ended up adding some length under the waist (for my long torso) increasing the hip width, raising the neckline by an inch and working the waist a bit. I say “working the waist” because I started slightly grading (adding) there for the hips but ended up having to take most of that out for a better fit.

The fabric was not from my stash. I actually thrifted it...on Wednesday! 

We’re visiting Edwin & Samantha in Texas and I always love making an effort to stop at Saver’s! They tend to have a good selection of fabric and this trip was no exception...actually it was so good I had to be extremely picky to stay in my budget!

I’ll be sharing my entire haul soon but for now we’ll just chat about this fabric.

My guess is a silk-like-polyester of a deep blue base. So deep blue it’s hard to even notice my black stitching!

This fabric actually worked spectacularly well because it is a patterned print but doesn’t need to be patterned matched! Pattern matching the front and back would had added hours of work to the cutting and sewing of the jumpsuit!

I didn’t measure the fabric but I was able to get the jumpsuit and still have some left.

With the fabric at $6.99 and the zipper at $2.97 the jumpsuit came out to be decently priced at $9.97.

By this time you may be wondering what the title has to do with this jumpsuit... I was hoping you wouldn’t notice that...because...it’s sad. 

I had just pressed the crotch seam with the iron on the lowest setting barely above the minimum off position and I was starting on the side seam when I smelled this burning smell!
The iron had blitzed and melted my seam!!!!!!!!!
What a way to damper the project! Due to the location of the burn and the wideness of the leg I was able just to pull fabric over and topstitch the patch/side seam the rest of the way down.
Whew! That was almost a disaster!

Even with all the planning that didn’t work out...the worst part of this project was burning a hole into it! At least it all worked out in the end...

• STASHBUSTING SEWIST SECRETS:
• PATTERN: Vintage McCall's 2185
• FABRIC: $6.99 THRIFTED Fabric FROM SAVER's IN TEXAS 
• NOTIONS: INVISIBLE ZIPPER - WALMART
• RATING: SUCCESS! 
• FABRIC STASHBUSTED SINCE JANUARY 1ST 2017: 25 3/8 YARDS

(A Dress That Was) A Long Time Coming... {Vogue 9201}

After two months of slowly stitching...I'm so excited to show you my rendition of Vogue 9201!

It has been a long time coming. 

Thankfully, I'm still as in love with it (or even more in love!) then when I cut it out on March 30th!

I use the word "rendition" purposefully. Because it really does feel like my interpretation of the pattern....

My original plan was to sew view B with the long sleeves, cute cuffs and the midi length...

When I accidently cut the (maxi) skirt length of C; I decided to leave it go and see what I thought about it in the end. Throughout the try ons and fittings I just couldn't see the stripes chopped off and ending just below my knee.

Unfortunately, the added length was causing me to rethink the long sleeves. Even with the idea of the white cuffs it was it was going to be too much.

With just the sleeves, hem and collar to go during one of my last try-ons in May, the solution finally clicked! 

• SLEEVELESS. 

The vibe was "sophisticated beach".  Something I'd feel comfortable in walking around the beach; barefoot of course after a long day at work. (Not that there are any beaches in Nebraska! haha)

With that in mind I used bias tape to bind the edges of the armholes and loved the result!

The stripes also caused some issues at the waist seam...

Despite my efforts for matching the stripes at the seam...it just ended up looking off. A few matched perfectly...some did not. Most of the stripes were straight down as an arrow and some were going at a diagonal. This may make it sound like a cutting issue but it's just the way the grainline of the pieces worked with the princess seams and skirt. 

The answer to this was a basic white sash to pull the collar in and break up the stripes without confusing the eye.

For the fabric belt I copied the length and style of my favorite vintage tie-belt. 

You may remember that Vogue 9201 is on my #2017MakeNine list! Only eight more to go!...eeek. I'm not going to get my hopes too high of finishing them all. I mean it's June the middle of the year and I just finished the first item. :-l

-'- Jewel

• STASHBUSTING SEWIST SECRETS:
• PATTERN: Vogue 9201
• FABRIC: $5 thrifted sheet from Goodwill in Texas / Collar & Sash: Recycled Pillowcase
• NOTIONS: INVISIBLE ZIPPER - WALMART / /  Buttons: Joann's
• RATING: SUCCESS! 
• FABRIC STASHBUSTED ON PROJECT: 5 YARDS
• FABRIC STASHBUSTED SINCE JANUARY 1ST 2017: 25 3/8 YARDS

My Clueless Dress?? [McCall's 6745]

Kimberly titled this dress the "Clueless Dress" because appearently there's a show (or movie?) called Clueless and the lady wears a yellow plaid dress?? I don't know but it's better then "The Yellow Plaid Dress". So? What am I going to say? haha

If you remember I talked about this dress way back in January in episode 7 of Sewing Desk Sit-Down. (Watch it HERE) It's been almost four months in the making but it's finally finished! 

For some reason once I reached inserting the zipper I didn't touch it until this past weekend...but the zipper is in, the lining sewn down and the hem finished so the dress is complete and wearable!

This is my second rendition of McCall's 6745 the first being the Spring Halt(er) Top Dress I sewed back in 2015! I think I'll get more use out of this version due to it not being a halter top...People look at you weird if you go out in the winter in a halter top... ;) Although, I do wear my white denim jacket which turns their judging eyes away. lol

One of my favorite design elements of this pattern is the pleated skirt. I love the shape, I love the fullness, I love the length and I love that it uses SIX yards of fabric! Yes VI, or S-I-X or 6 yards of fabric! Four and a half of that is in the skirt alone leaving the other foot and a half to the bodice and bodice lining. It will definitely help with my fabric stashbusting numbers this month!

-'- Jewel

• STASHBUSTING SEWIST SECRETS:
• PATTERN: McCall's 6745 (PURCHASED January OF 2014)
• FABRIC: black fabric for bodice - Grandmother's Stash 
• Yellow Plaid Fabric thrifted from Goodwill for $3.99 Purchased february 2016 
• NOTIONS: INVISIBLE ZIPPER - Walmart
• RATING: SUCCESS! 
• FABRIC STASHBUSTED ON PROJECT: 6 YARDS
• FABRIC STASHBUSTED SINCE JANUARY 1ST 2017: 20 3/8 YARDS

  

Mini Tania Culottes [Megan Nielsen Patterns]

I'm excited to share with you another new project!
It actually feels weird to be sharing a new project with you already. This year my sewing has been going sooooo slow. Slow enough that is seems I hardly finish a garment a month...
I really wish it wasn't "sew". ;)
 Enough of all this sad talk...let's talk culottes!

Culottes are...

...weird.

They are shorts but yet they are a skirt...but they aren't. (Like I said weird)

...one of those things you don't know you're missing out on until you get one.

To me culottes are this amazing invention. 

When you want to wear a skirt but with the practicality of shorts/pants they are the option.

...destined to become a favorite.

When I was younger, one of my favorite outfits was this pair of dark brown culottes that had super wide legs which gave the look of a maxi skirt. I chose to wear them ALL the time! Could this happen with the Tanias as well?? 

 / Lace Top: American Eagle (Brand new secondhand from Plato's Closet) / Pink cami: Jockey P2P (Seasons ago) / Catch-All Sling Bag: Knitted by TaMera / Shoes: Payless Shoe Source (2014) \

I'm rather impressed with the Tania pattern! I thought it was going to be a long sew (not complicated just timely) but I was able to sew them up in a weekend! 

Next time, I'm going to try the midi or maxi length...although I can totally see myself sewing up another pair of mini's for Summer first. lol

-'- Jewel

• Stashbusting Sewist Secrets:
• Pattern: Tania Culottes by Megan Nielsen Patterns - Mini Length (Purchased fall of 2016)
• Fabric: Gray/Blueish Chambray - Gifted from my cousin-in-law last summer
• Notions: Invisible Zipper & Thread - JoAnn's Fabric & Crafts
• Rating: Success! 
• Fabric stashbusted on project: 1 5/8 yards
• Fabric stashbusted since January 1st 2017: 11 3/8 yards

Aztec Reversible Skirt {Vintage Simplicity 7779...sort of}

I cut this project out on January 1st and it is officially finished!

Originally it was just going to take a weekend to sew up...that was before I decided to make it reversible...

Oh yes, the pattern is a basic A-line skirt with front and back darts, a center back zip, and seam.
But I couldn't decide which side of the fabric I wanted to be the "right side" for the public to see.

What does the crazy, overachiever person do?

Make a normal skirt [from a obvious leftover piece of vintage fabric, with no possibility of purchasing more if necessary] into a reversible skirt!

Side A (pictured above) has wooden buttons and pleats for waist shaping.

To make the pattern reversible, I turned the front into the back. 

I sewed the side seams at 3/8 of an inch and used the extra width for the button band.

 Then covered the side seam on Side B with satin ribbon.

In place of darts I made tiny, little pleats. (Next time I'll try something different; they look good on Side A but Side B they aren't my favorite look.)

Finally added a hem band for a clean finish and ...that's it!

Wow...writing it out makes it sound so much simpler than it actually was! 

Much of the time spent on the project was spent thinking over the ways to "hack" the pattern into a reversible skirt and working out the problems that doing so created. 

For example, I had to figure out in which order the steps needed to be sewed and they are as follows:

1. Darts.
2. Side Seams
3. Tuxedo Stripes
4. Button Band
5. Waistband
6. and finally the Hem Band.

This was to ensure the cleanest finish on both sides of the skirt.

Normally with a skirt, the seam allowance of the side seam just needs to be finished (to reduce raveling) because it will be hidden on the inside of the skirt. Making this skirt reversible meant the seams would be visible at times so I had to come up with a way to hide the seam allowance [wrong side of the side seam] that was visually interesting, aesthetically pleasing and also not take away from the garment.

Side B has basic gray buttons and a gray satin tuxedo stripe down the side seams.

The skirt is very versatile and can be dressed up (think business attire) or dressed down for a more casual feel just depending on the blouse and shoes you chose. 

The pattern is vintage 1968 Simplicity 7779.

The main fabric is from my Grandmother's stash and the waistband fabric was purchased at Calico House Fabrics specifically for this skirt.

The buttons are from JoAnn's.

I'm so excited that it came out exactly the way I was envisioning and hoped it would!

There are a ton of projects I'm planning, with some already in the works! I'm sure I'll be talking to you sooner than later! :)

-'- Jewel

Fabric used on this project: 1 3/4 yards
Fabric sewn in 2017: 15 3/4 yards

January Stashbusting & Pattern 'N' Fabric Fast Round-Up

January is over and it is time to gather up the information of the past month and see how well I did!
If you've been following my blog for awhile you know I'm trying to sew through my stash of mostly gifted fabrics. My grandmother, grandma, and Mom gave me their stashes when I started sewing since they had all quit many years prior. So...it's a bit overwhelming.

This year's stashbusting goal is to sew through 100 yards of fabric!
All fabric purchases will be subtracted from the sewn amount so it's not just sewing 100 yards it's getting rid of 100 yards!

As another goal, I made a personal pledge for a pattern 'n' fabric fast. On November 12th 2016 with the follow sewists and stashbusters of Stashbusting Sew-A-Long as my witnesses I said:

• "✋🏼 "I, Jewel McClellan. A dedicated sewist and lover of fabric and patterns. From this moment on will buy no more patterns and/or fabric until 2017. 
• I will restrain from online window shopping and every time I get an urge to do so will sit in front of the fabric shelf or pile the baskets of patterns around myself to be overwhelmed until the said feeling passes."

After a successful month and (about) a half with great expectations I decided to extend it to June of 2017.

I'm confessing to you today...I have broke it. Not with fabric. No! But with a few patterns... I know...I know I said I wouldn't. :( 

I was in the car with (my sister) Tiffany, checking my email and there was a JoAnn's sale email...
I clicked to find when the patterns were going to be on sale. (Bad, bad choice Jewel!) 
Getting to her house I got on the computer and started browsing to see which ones I should get. Again...setting myself up for failure...

I only purchased a single pattern for myself. Simplicity 8248 a 1930s reproduction pattern. Since it came out I've been drooling over it and seeing so many different versions in my head! 
I've also been watching Miss Fisher's Murder Mysteries an Australian show that's based in the 1920s (currently on USA Netflix) and love the fashion! 
From a production element, I love how they put Miss Fisher (the leading lady) in rich, true and bright colors as the rest of the cast are in browns and neutrals.

The deal breaker for me was finding this pin on Pinterest! How gorgeous is this dress?? The design elements of the pattern and dress are so very close! I'm pretty sure I can make it! 

I also wanted to get some patterns for TaMera. I know so much more about her personal style then before. Many of the patterns I've previously purchased for her she wouldn't wear. She may "like" them but that doesn't mean she'd like to "wear" them. Big difference. Finding your personal style could possible be the hardest thing about fashion. At least I think so!

Burda 6551

I chose this pattern because TaMera wears a lot of button-ups. (Not necessarily what I'd chose for her to wear but again this about HER style.)

Simplicity 8214

This is a cool little pattern! It's a jumpsuit and dress pattern that can be easily transformed into a coordinating outfit. With a jumpsuit pattern you don't have to worry about your shirt untucking and such.

Burda 6549

One of TaMera's favorite ready-to-wear (RTW) dresses is very similar to this style. I'll just have to raise the neckline for comfort's sake.

These three are for Tiffany and she chose them herself. Tiffany can still wear clothes that she wore 5-7 years ago. (Yes...don't we all wish we could say that!) She's just tried of her closet and for good reason too! She only buys three maybe four new garments a year so she has a reason to be. I hope to start bringing some more custom-made garments into her wardrobe these coming years.

My fabric stashbusting efforts on the other hand were much better. 

0 yards of fabric in and 8 yards out!

Items sewn:

2 Lissette Dress for Hannah (I'll be sharing all four in one blog post soon) - 6 yards
TaMera's Sweater for the Wardrobe Project - 2 yards 

I have a few un-finished projects I'm still working on so February's totals should be a little higher then January's! Here's to hoping anyway. ;)

-'- Jewel

TaMera's Wardrobe Builder / Month 1 / McCall's 6992

A couple of week ago I came across the Wardrobe Builder project and thought it would help me stay focused on getting TaMera some good pieces into her closet. Month one is coming to a close and I'm feeling good! ...basically because I finished the sweater. haha

The pattern is McCall's 6992 and both fabrics are from Grandmother's stash!

February is Shirts and Blouses...and I just...uhhh...broke my pattern fast with this great blouse pattern for TaMera! So you might be seeing next month! 

Fabric used on this project: 2 yards
Fabric used in 2017: 2 yards

TaMera's Christmas Dress

Merry Christmas! I am incredibly excited to share TaMera's Christmas dress with you!

The pattern is vintage mail-order pattern Sew-Rite 8238 that was originally our Grandma's. It has slight gathers where the front bodice and yoke join (I'd consider them more the shoulder straps but the pattern called it a yoke) and pleats above the waist seam for the bust shaping.

At TaMera's request I moved the zipper to center back instead of the side zipper. To cut it out without distorting the look and shape of the dress I simply cut the back bodice and back skirt as two pieces (rather than on the fold) and added 5/8 for the seam allowance at the center.

I love the ever so slight shaping at the neckline! Curved edges and sharp corners...this dress has it all!

This fabric has been in the stash for ages...I remember Mom making us dresses out of it when I has about 7 or 8. Yes over ten years ago! 

Because of the way I had to layout the skirt pieces to get the border print to match up there's only a strange shaped scrap left. At one point, I was worried if I'd even find an area big enough (after cutting the skirt) to get the bodice pieces out. ...Misreading the perforated dots and cutting the front bodice wrong didn't help either... 

Thankfully everything came out alright! *sigh of relief*

I'm also relieved that I chose to make a test dress prior to sewing the actual dress. Since I had already made the pattern for TaMera by making the test dress I had already figured out the few fitting tweaks that needed to be made and was more familiar with constructing it.

I really have no regrets with this dress! Which is amazing because I tend to over-obsess about the mistakes and little things in projects even when it's something only I'll probably notice.

 I'll be sharing my own Christmas outfit soon so keep watching... 

Hope you have a Merry Christmas and a fabulous weekend!

-'- Jewel

See the dress in action in Episode 5 of Sewing Desk Sit-Down with Jewel HERE: 

• Pattern: Vintage Mail-Order Sew-Rite 8238 / Fabric: Stash / Fabric used on project: 3+ yards (not including test dress)
• 
  
• Want to join a amazing sewing group and connect with sewists across the world? 
• Join the Sew-A-Long & Sewing Contests HERE! 
• *You will need a Facebook account*